Old Pueblo Engineering Center
Founded 2006 in Tucson, AZ. to explore Human/Robot Interactivity
“Drilling Brains for a New & Better Use of Technology”
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Powering the RoboGuts™ circuit board

There is a V+ and a V- ... Generally called; Positive Voltage and Ground

Most people will use positive with RED or ORANGE wires
and
Ground with BLACK or GREEN wires

However, some of these colors will be used with other devices like color LEDs so not all red/orange or black/green colors will be + or -

On the RoboGuts™ circuit board power is applied to the top left 2-PIN male connector

The Power IN is dependent upon the voltage you have available.

With the PICAXE 28X2 module you can use anything from +7V to +12V on PIN 28

and the PICAXE 28X2 module then supplies +5V to the RoboGuts™ board

or
+4.5V to +5V on PIN 25 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine.

Jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the +4.5V or +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board

or
+6V on PIN 28 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the regulated +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board

or
+7.4V (2-cell) to 11.1V (3-cell) LiPo on PIN 28 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the regulated +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board

Finally, adding a LM7805 to the 3-holes in the center of the board you can regulate Vin (6V to 12V) down to 5V to power the board, modules and chips

More very useful info on Batteries and Power;
http://www.energizer.com/science-center


- - - - - - - - - - POWER Videos - - - - - - - - - -

Various ways to Power the RoboGuts™ circuit board

RoboGuts™ Build-Up with PICAXE 28X2 module

RoboGuts Build-Up with a BS2 BASIC Stamp 2 module

Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +4 5V 3-AA cell Battery Pack

Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +9V

Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +LM7805 +9V Battery

Powering RoboGuts +BS2 +9V Battery

Powering RoboGuts +Parallax BS2 +4.5V 3-AA cell Battery Pack

RoboGuts™ Build-Up with the Arduino ATMEGA328P chip

Powering RoboGuts +ATMEGA328P +LD1117V33 3.3V Regulator +9V

Powering RoboGuts +ATMEGA328P +4.5V 3-AA Battery Pack


- - - - - - - - - - ASSEMBLY Videos - - - - - - - - - -

RoboGuts+Lesson X0 3D printed miniFloppyBot Singing Electronic

RoboGuts™ Lesson-00, 02 and 10 BuildUp

Build a BillyBot

miniFloppyBot Assemblies

Skully Kit Assembly

miniFloppyBot Leg Assembly

RoboGuts™ Build-Up with the Arduino ATMEGA328P chip

RoboGuts™ Build-Up with PICAXE 28X2 module

RoboGuts Build-Up with a BS2 BASIC Stamp 2 module

100mm Wheels

60 & 70mm Wheels




A couple of opinions on Volts & Amps

What is taught to electrical engineers is that "it is the current that kills". 1mA can put you into ventricular fibrillation you if there there is a current path that goes directly through your heart. One of my projects used a 14KV power supply (very low current) and was relatively safe to work around.

Now I'll answer your question. 24V is generally considered a "safe" voltage because it can rarely break down the resistance of your skin. This is why model railroads generally never went higher than 24V. None-the-less, if you stand in your bare feet in a puddle of grounded salt water and grab onto 24V with your slippery salt water hands, you'll probably feel it and it may be the last thing you ever feel.

In addition to current issues, almost all batteries we encounter in robotics have a failure mode where if you short them, the battery will get extremely hot and possibly catch fire or even possibly explode. If it is a lithium battery, you probably will not have any means at your disposal to put the fire out. Some to the newer and more expensive batteries have a current limiter built into the battery, so a direct short will not cause the battery explosion and catch fire phenomena.

This is a pretty large subject and I am only scratching the surface.


The official answer is that under 50V is safe, inspired largely by the huge bill that would have been incurred to replace all the phone jacks on the 48V system in use.

However, 12V can kill you if you try hard enough and even a couple of volts can be felt if you've got wet skin (tongue on a 9V battery is a good demonstration of an unpleasant but non-fatal zap).

The other thing to consider is the rated voltage of whatever else you're using. 12V, 24V and 48V are all 'standard' voltages for various reasons. It's also better to convert down from battery voltage rather than up.



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