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Ready-2-Play Robotics 5t4nd1ng @ th3 3dg3 0f 5p3ct4t10n! Give a child a toy and they're happy for an hour. Teach a child how to make their own toys, and they're happy for life! RoboGuts™ and PICAXE 28X2 module Layout JP18 is the Battery IN male header top right of images RoboGuts™ circuit board Layout Powering the RoboGuts™ circuit board There is a V+ and a V- ... Generally called; Positive Voltage and Ground Most people will use positive with RED or ORANGE wires and Ground with BLACK or GREEN wires Experiments are designed for 3-AA batteries = 4.5V or 5V a.c. adapter Power IN See the various ways to power the RoboGuts™ circuit board Experiment-00-4.5V-5V . . . . . Experiment-00-6V-12V . . . . . Experiment-00 3.3V or 5V regulator + 6V-12V PowerChoices4RoboGuts However, some of these colors will be used with other devices like color LEDs so not all red/orange or black/green colors will be + or - On the RoboGuts™ circuit board power is applied to the top left 2-PIN male connector The Power IN is dependent upon the voltage you have available. With the PICAXE 28X2 module you can use anything from +7V to +12V on PIN 28 and the PICAXE 28X2 module then supplies +5V to the RoboGuts™ board or +4.5V to +5V on PIN 25 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine. Jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the +4.5V or +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board or +6V on PIN 28 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the regulated +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board or +7.4V (2-cell) to 11.1V (3-cell) LiPo on PIN 28 and the RoboGuts™ board and module will function just fine jumpering from PIN 25 to the Vdd power block you can carry the regulated +5V to share power to the RoboGuts™ circuit board Finally, adding a LM7805 to the 3-holes in the center of the board you can regulate Vin (6V to 12V) down to 5V to power the board, modules and chips More very useful info on Batteries and Power; http://www.energizer.com/science-center - - - - - - - - - - POWER Videos - - - - - - - - - - Various ways to Power the RoboGuts™ circuit board RoboGuts™ Build-Up with PICAXE 28X2 module RoboGuts Build-Up with a BS2 BASIC Stamp 2 module Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +4 5V 3-AA cell Battery Pack Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +9V Powering the RoboGuts +PICAXE28X2 +LM7805 +9V Battery Powering RoboGuts +BS2 +9V Battery Powering RoboGuts +Parallax BS2 +4.5V 3-AA cell Battery Pack RoboGuts™ Build-Up with the Arduino ATMEGA328P chip Powering RoboGuts +ATMEGA328P +LD1117V33 3.3V Regulator +9V Powering RoboGuts +ATMEGA328P +4.5V 3-AA Battery Pack - - - - - - - - - - ASSEMBLY Videos - - - - - - - - - - RoboGuts+Lesson X0 3D printed miniFloppyBot Singing Electronic RoboGuts™ Lesson-00, 02 and 10 BuildUp Build a BillyBot miniFloppyBot Assemblies Skully Kit Assembly miniFloppyBot Leg Assembly RoboGuts™ Build-Up with the Arduino ATMEGA328P chip RoboGuts™ Build-Up with PICAXE 28X2 module RoboGuts Build-Up with a BS2 BASIC Stamp 2 module 100mm Wheels 60 & 70mm Wheels A couple of opinions on Volts & Amps What is taught to electrical engineers is that "it is the current that kills". 1mA can put you into ventricular fibrillation you if there there is a current path that goes directly through your heart. One of my projects used a 14KV power supply (very low current) and was relatively safe to work around. Now I'll answer your question. 24V is generally considered a "safe" voltage because it can rarely break down the resistance of your skin. This is why model railroads generally never went higher than 24V. None-the-less, if you stand in your bare feet in a puddle of grounded salt water and grab onto 24V with your slippery salt water hands, you'll probably feel it and it may be the last thing you ever feel. In addition to current issues, almost all batteries we encounter in robotics have a failure mode where if you short them, the battery will get extremely hot and possibly catch fire or even possibly explode. If it is a lithium battery, you probably will not have any means at your disposal to put the fire out. Some to the newer and more expensive batteries have a current limiter built into the battery, so a direct short will not cause the battery explosion and catch fire phenomena. This is a pretty large subject and I am only scratching the surface. The official answer is that under 50V is safe, inspired largely by the huge bill that would have been incurred to replace all the phone jacks on the 48V system in use. However, 12V can kill you if you try hard enough and even a couple of volts can be felt if you've got wet skin (tongue on a 9V battery is a good demonstration of an unpleasant but non-fatal zap). The other thing to consider is the rated voltage of whatever else you're using. 12V, 24V and 48V are all 'standard' voltages for various reasons. It's also better to convert down from battery voltage rather than up.